I love to visit the Opal Coast at any time of the year; the constantly changing face of the glorious countryside, the view of the White Cliffs of Dover a mere 21 miles across the English Channel, picturesque towns and villages are always quite wonderful. The route from Calais to Boulogne-sur-mer along the D940 coastal road is one of the best scenic route drives I know…


Early in June I dropped in on the Fete du Crabe, the festival of the crab, at the little fishing village of Audresselles on the Opal Coast. A mere 20 minutes’ drive from the huge port of Calais, this little town on the coastal road of the D940 is like a secret little fishing village that time has passed by. The fields along this route were lined with deep red poppies, with the blue sea as a backdrop they were stunning.

There are many fishermen and women in the town; many of them fish for crab and shell fish by hand or from the old traditional boats of the area known as flobards. In fact you’ll see flobards everywhere you look, in front gardens, being pulled up on the beach by ancient tractors or even parked in the road like a car!

The fish are sold from the garages and huts of local homes. Those in the know in this area will visit in the afternoon when the haul of the day has been bought in, cleaned, prepared and ready to buy and take home – fresh from the sea.

The village with its pretty fishermen’s cottages, fine restaurants – of course selling fish – and little winding streets is lovely.


Every year on a June weekend, a very special crab festival takes place in the little fishing village of Audresselles on the Opal Coast of northern France.
About a 20 minute drive from the port of Calais, tucked away off the main artery A16 autoroute which leads to the south, is the glorious D940 coastal road which runs from Calais to Boulogne.

Nothing much has changed in the village of Audresselles half way along the D940 since those days – you will find in this lovely, vibrant village several homes where fish and shellfish are sold direct from the garage or the front garden. Fish are caught by hand, from small boats or from flobards – the traditional flat bottomed boats which have been used since time immemorial in this area. Madame Baillet, who sells the fish from the garage of her home at 119 rue Gustave Danquin, bought in fresh each day by her sons Stephane and Francois, tells customers how proud she is to be a part of this tradition.


In June, the annual Fete du Crabe is held in honour, of course, of the crab, which is caught in profusion in these parts. The tractors of the town fishermen pull the boats up onto the beach under the hot sun; fishermen and women wade out into the rock pools via the Jurassic looking jetty with its immense boulders. Carrying big crates to put the crabs and shellfish in they return to the town laden with fresh shellfish for the visitors in the know who arrive here for a fabulous lunch and to enjoy the fete.

Bands play, there is bag pipe music, majorettes and sea shanties. Local folk dancing group Les Bretons de Dunkerque perform on stage to huge applause and I think to myself they must be warm, the sun is beaming down on their black costumes, the gold brocade glinting but the smiles stay throughout, everyone is enjoying the gorgeous Opal Coast day. The staff of the crab stall are rushed off their feet as people queue for freshly cooked crab and soft baked bread – simple but delicious.


Take time to explore this beautiful coast line and you’ll discover ancient forts and WWII bunkers and museums. Climb the Colonne de la Grande Armée – a 50 metre tall tower erected in honour of Napoleon on the spot where he issued the first Legion d’Honneur medals on 16th August 1804, and where almost 2000 years earlier Julius Caesar planned his invasion of Britain. Ascend the 263 steps and you’ll be rewarded with the most amazing views over the surrounding beautiful countryside and coast and a clear sight of the UK! The gardens and avenues at the base of the Column are perfect for a shady picnic with a view.

If you’ve no head for heights check out the little museum at the base of the Column which is full of fascinating documents, medals and the original Napoleon statue which was damaged by bombs in WWII.

The countryside is beautiful, a mosaic of colours against the backdrop of the English Channel. Tiny towns with artisan boulangeries and charcuteries will tempt you – let them! A picnic along the Opal Coast is the perfect way to enjoy the fresh air and the special quality of light that you’ll discover here – the reason it is called the Opal Coast.

You don’t have to wait for the Crab Festival to enjoy the route, the villages or the fresh fish – the fishermen sell their produce all year round along this coastal road and a visit to this lovely part of France is always a good idea.



In fact all along this coastal road you’ll come across picturesque villages and towns where you can buy fresh fish for the homes of those who go out and catch them each day – just look for the signs!

This road is not long and if you put your foot down and drive straight along from Calais to Boulogne it won’t take much more than 30 minutes. However, I guarantee you’ll want to stop along the way so allow up to a day to see it all, have a fabulous lunch and enjoy the views.

Editor of www.thegoodlifefrance.com, freelancer writer and member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, Janine Marsh specialises in French destinations and expat life in France. She lives near Le Touquet, northern France where she has a small farmhouse and keeps chickens.

Editor's Note:

Janine is an explosive bundle of fun who has exported 'The Good Life' (That wonderful BBC TV series featuring Richard Briars, Felicity Kendal, Penelope Keith and Paul Eddington - broadcast between 1975 - 1978) into France and combined it with maintaining an amazingly active blog that includes delicious recipes and amusing but knowledgeable travelogs. The above article is an example of her delightful style and enthusiasm. Just another reminder of where to find Janine's super blog - www.thegoodlifefrance.com