Anna Hyman found the opportunity of a couple of days in Calais doing a spot of shopping, looking at exquisite lace, visiting a microbrewery and sampling fabulous meals just too tempting.

School lessons have long since slipped into the dark recesses of my memory, but for some reason I can still see the history teacher telling us that Calais was engraved on Mary Tudor’s heart. How romantic, I had thought, imagining it as somewhere that held special memories for her. I hadn’t realised that the Queen was bemoaning the loss in 1558, of the last English possession in France; Calais having been in English hands for some 200 years.


Rodin's statue 'The Burghers of Calais'

Just 34 kilometres across the Channel from Dover, Calais owed much of its prosperity to its location and proximity to the English coast. During the 100 Years’ War, King Edward III certainly appreciated its strategic position and besieged the port for nearly a year before its residents capitulated. Edward had agreed to spare the town from revenge if six of its leading citizens offered themselves for execution. As it turned out the six burghers, who appeared before the court clad only in shirts with ropes round their necks, were spared by the intervention of the king’s French wife, Philippa. In the 19th century the sculptor Rodin commemorated the men’s bravery with a powerful and moving statue portraying their fear and courage. It stands today in front of Calais’ redbrick Flemish-style Town Hall.

With so many British accents heard in restaurants, bars and shops it is sometimes hard to believe that Calais isn’t still an English possession. Virtually all shop keepers, bar and hotel staff appear to be able to switch virtually seamlessly from French to English and with the majority of menus tactfully printed in both languages a stopover in Calais, for those of us linguistically challenged, is not much of a problem.


Centre of Calais

A good start to any visit to Calais is to take one of the P&O Ferries that ply their way across the channel with amazing frequency. Depending on the time of day I often either upgrade myself into the comfort of the first class lounge where I am cosseted with a glass of champagne, the daily newspapers and tea, coffee and cookies or I head for Langans restaurant. How the kitchen and delightful waiting staff manage to produce and serve a three-course meal in so short a time always astounds me. But if I want to do some serious on-board shopping and perhaps save money it’s into the self-service restaurant before hitting the well-stocked shop.

I am lucky in having a number of friends who live in Kent that I can stay with prior to a day trip to Calais. However, to really appreciate some of the excellent Calais restaurants a longer visit is required and the Holiday Inn made a good base on my last visit.


La Maison du Fromage et des Vins

First port of call was to stroll the 100 yards or so from the hotel to La Maison du Fromage et des Vins in rue André Gerschell and renew an old acquaintanceship with Iris, Nelly and Arnaud. I love that shop. With its shelves lined with tempting treats sourced from all over France it’s a foodie’s idea of heaven. Iris showed me the hampers and gift packs she was introducing for Christmas – a jar of paté, honey, chocolates, wines, mustard. I thought it a brilliant idea that she would actually make them up for customers according to their choice of goodies and budget.

We had chosen to eat that evening at Le Channel, a Calais restaurant noted for its fine food. It’s a couple of doors down from La Maison du Fromage et des Vins and owned by Aubin’s parents; his brother is the chef. During the evening Aubin, one of France’s award-winning Sommeliers, made another appearance – this time wearing his Sommelier badge and pouring our wine. Inside the entrance to Le Channel visitors can look through the glass floor for a glimpse down into the large wine cellar. Apart from that extensive wine cellar any restaurant that wheels out a laden dessert trolley gets my vote.


Calais Pier

Another restaurant that also gets my vote is the Aquar’Aile, 255 Rue Jean Moulin. It took a friend and I ages to find it on our first visit, we hadn’t expected a restaurant to be on top of a block of flats. It is a bit difficult to find, but persevere. Go at lunchtime and whilst enjoying a superb meal gaze out through its panoramic windows and watch the ferries buzzing in and out of port and on a clear day maybe spot the White Cliffs of Dover. The restaurant specialises in seafood, but it is all seriously good cooking.

Apart from lunching at Aquar’Aile we also called in at the Carrefour hypermarket just outside Calais. Every time I visit it I am astounded by the fantastic choice and variety of its merchandise. I love the household section and usually find some new gadget for the kitchen that I cannot possibly live without before turning my attention to the food and wine. Next time I know a visit to Carrefour is in the offing I’ll go onto their website and, so long as I give 72-hours notice, order wine ready for collection to save a bit of time.


Pas de Calais

On a previous visit to Calais a beer-loving friend and I had tracked down the Brasserie Artisanale des 2 Caps on the Belle Dalle farm at Tardinghen. As it was a glorious day an after lunch trip out into the countryside to see how Christophe Noyon and his wife were getting on with their brewing enterprise seemed like a good idea. The Belle Dalle, a strong real ale, produced from barley grown on the farm tasted as good as ever. Alongside the Belle Dalle Christophe offers 2 Caps, a blond ale; Blanche de Wissant, a white, light beer as well as a stout, Noire de Slack. Especially for the 2010 Christmas market he has produced a limited edition of an 8% beer made from English hops – Guénel. (Off-sales Friday and Saturday or call 03 21 10 56 63 or email [email protected])

Christophe’s family were once lace makers and a chance remark of his reminded me that I had not paid a visit to the Lace Museum in its new location alongside the Canal de Calais at Saint Omer. The history of the manufacture of lace making in Calais dates back to the 19th century when the first loom was smuggled into France from the English town of Nottingham. Appropriately enough the history of lace making, with many exquisite hand-made exhibits, is housed in an original lace factory, whilst the stylish modern extension with its curving glass façade, screen printed with Jacquard card designs for the looms, is given over to temporary exhibitions. www.cite-dentelle.fr.

Bearing in mind our fairly substantial lunch, food should have been the last thing on our minds but before hitting some of the Calais bars for a nightcap or two we called in to Du Vignobles au Verre in the Place d’Armes for a relaxed and tasty supper.

The next morning I was back in the Place d’Armes wandering round the lively Saturday market - before catching the ferry back to Dover.

When visiting Calais from the U.K please click on the P&O Ferries advertisement for more details and special offers.