It had been some while since Norma Rowlerson had last visited Hong Kong. How much, she wondered, had it changed?


Hong Kong

Visitors returning to Hong Kong after an absence will note that everything seems higher, bigger and longer. But there are two exceptions to this.

The first is the flight time between the UK and Hong Kong. When Cathay Pacific started flying that route 30 years ago, the journey, including a refuelling stop at Bahrain, took around 16 hours. Now, non-stop flights have lopped about six hours off the journey time.

The history of Cathay Pacific is fascinating. The company was founded in 1946 by an American and an Australian. They initially bought, and converted, a Douglas DC3 which initially flew between Manila and Shanghai. But for more on its history visit www.cathaypacific.com/cpa/enGB/aboutus/cxbackground/history


Star Ferry

The second exception is the length of the journey of the Star Ferry. When it was established in 1911, the distance covered between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon on the mainland was two kilometres. Now, because of land reclamation, the route covers just 800 metres. The ferry crossing still retains its original flavour though. The boat has the same varnished wood slat benches conveniently hinged so that passengers can face the direction of their choice whilst enjoying sea breezes. There are the same clanking sounds as the metal ramps are raised and lowered. And the ferryman’s uniform is the same shade of navy blue with white stars on the collar.


Jasmine tea

A walk along the shore at Stanley takes the visitor to cafes and restaurants galore. You can buy almost anything in the mall and up the winding little side alleys. ‘My cup of Tea’ is the place to buy jasmine tea. It is actually green tea, jasmine and clover, all cleverly bound together into a little globe which unfolds into a flower shape when water is added. Incidentally, clover is much prized and is reputedly good for the heart.

Sitting on the top deck of a double decker, I bounced along from Stanley to Kowloon catching tantalising glimpses of a blue, blue sea between hibiscus hedges and other exotic blooms.


Kowloon Market

In Kowloon, the old clock tower still greets visitors. Nearby, the place to buy really upmarket Chinese goods is Chinese Arts and Crafts. Government run, the prices are fixed and the quality superb. On sale is hand-sewn tableware, lovely ceramics, trendy, smart clothes, jade in all its colours and much else. I bought a little glass teapot so that I can see the jasmine tea flower opening.

On Hong Kong Island, a local bus will whisk you up to The Peak in no time. The facilities have grown in recent years and you could happily spend a whole day up there. Again, the views in every direction are wonderful. There are places to eat and shops selling genuine Chinese goods, an observatory and viewing platform.


The Peak Tram

I went down on the Peak Tram and had a grandstand view of the centre of the island. There was time to take a taxi to see the Cenotaph, a replica of the one in Whitehall.

On another day in Causeway Bay I heard the Noonday Gun. It was formerly a naval weapon and was immortalised in Noel Coward’s song ‘Mad Dogs and Englishmen.’

For a true feast of Chinese food, make for the Peking Garden in Alexander House, close to the Mandarin Hotel where course follows course, all tasty and some unusual. Beggars’ Chicken was one - a thick ‘crust’ is cracked open with a hammer, revealing the succulent dish inside. A demonstration of noodle making was laid on, not as easy as it looks! A fish course consisting of a Red Snapper was a real delicacy.


Repulse Bay

I also revisited the rebuilt Repulse Bay Hotel. Today it is an upmarket restaurant where every table has a sea view. There was even the distant strain of bagpipes from a wedding party taking place in the gardens below.

Higher, bigger, longer maybe, but Hong Kong never loses its charm.

Cathay Pacific flies from London Heathrow to Hong Kong four times daily. Visit www.cathaypacific.co.uk

For other competitive priced air fares to Hong Kong click on the Direct Flights advertisement above this article