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INDIA - KERALA

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Carolyn HammondPhotos Carolyn Hammond & relevant hotels

Fishing Nets in Cochin

Photos - click to enlarge.


A TRAVEL NEWS ARTICLE ABOUT INDIA



VISIT KERALA, FALL IN LOVE
With the place, the people and the food

I was very privileged to have been invited on a familiarisation trip to the region of Kerala and have put together this report covering the properties visited. May I take this opportunity of thanking everyone involved for their hospitality and generosity not to mention the time given to showcase such a beautiful area of India. It doesn’t matter how many books you read or how much research you undertake, nothing will prepare you for the complete experience that will assault your senses. I had no idea what to expect, having never visited India before, and WOW was I in for a treat.


A Rice Boat on the Kerala Backwaters

Kerala is divided into 3 sections, the South, Central and the North. It is caressed by the soft, warm Arabian Sea in the West and towering Western Ghats mountains in the East. We visited the ‘central’ part of Kerala as this is the most beautiful. Central Kerala is also split into 3 parts – the Lowlands, the Midlands and the Highlands and all offer something different and with over forty rivers networking across the region you can see why it is so green and lush and full of life.

Accommodations visited were also very varied from the 5* Taj Malabar to traditional Keralan houses. Kerala definitely has something for everyone, whatever their tastes, budgets and interests.

FORT COCHIN (or KOCHI) – This is a busy, bustling place with many shops and street vendors. Fish is caught daily and is sold to locals, restaurants and hoteliers. Walking around Fort Cochin is very easy and safe. I saw many ladies walking about on their own – which is a great selling point. May this freedom continue. If you get tired of walking then just hop into a Tuk Tuk – a great way to get about. Also make sure to visit the Chinese fishing nets. Watch the men raise & lower these huge nets into the water by means of pulleys and large stone weights. Definitely a great photo opportunity!

http://www.cghearth.com/brunton-boatyard - CGH Earth Property (Lowlands) which is approximately 1½ hours from Kochi Airport (traffic permitting).


This hotel has been built on the site of the actual boatyard and encapsulates a bygone era. It has many old traditional features, like the Punkah fans (an early type of ceiling fan) placed above seating in the lobby area of the hotel. Step back in time and become a ‘Punkah Wallah’ by operating this fan to cool people down. Bedrooms here are very spacious as are the en-suites. The food was excellent with a good choice at both dinner and breakfast. The hotel has a lovely view of the waterway, however, this is a very busy stretch of water (the hotel is positioned near the mouth of the river) and there are lots of container ships passing through. It is also close to the local ferry terminal but the view is stunning. It also has a very nice pool – ideal for cooling down after a day’s shopping or exploring Fort Cochin. As this is a waterfront property a sunset cruise is offered to all guests free of charge. The hotel also has its own Ayurveda treatment centre. Guests are given a map of Fort Cochin highlighting places of interest so that they can take themselves on their own walking tours. Mosquito plugs are in the rooms and the electric points take the UK 3-pin plug. Free Wi-Fi for guests. All in all a great place to either start or end your visit to Kerala.

TAJ MALABAR, WILLINGDON ISLAND, COCHIN (Lowlands)
This hotel is approximately 1 hour from Kochi Airport.

This 5* hotel is very grand. It is actually split into two properties – the Tower Wing (62 rooms) and the Heritage Wing (33 rooms). The rooms here are of a very high standard and they also have a Presidential Suite with its own private outside area. The hotel has a reasonably sized infinity pool, spa and a yacht. It also owns a small island a short distance from the hotel called Gundu Island and guests can visit this ‘sanctuary’ but are unable to stay overnight. As this is a waterfront property guests can again participate in a sunset cruise should they so wish. A short ferry ride can take you to the shops or to explore the heritage of Cochin. Cost at the time of writing is approximately two Rupees.

TRIDENT HOTEL, WILLINGDON ISLAND, COCHIN (Lowlands)


We had a typical Keralan lunch here – very good. What a lovely hotel. Very nice bedrooms with good en-suites. The hotel has a lovely garden area ideal for when you want to spend a quiet moment reading. They also have their own Ayurveda treatment centre and swimming pool. Free Wi-Fi for guests. There was a very good feel to this hotel.


ELAMTHOTTAM BUNGALOW – HOMESTAY, KANJIRAPPALLY (Midlands)

It was quite a drive to this property but well worth the journey as the views from here are breath-taking. The owners were extremely nice and made us all feel very welcome showing us around their property and even getting out their daughter’s wedding album.

Predominantly a rubber plantation, they also grow other crops: Pineapples, pepper, nutmeg, passion fruit. It was very interesting to see how they tap rubber from the trees and then see it in its finished state.

The property was very clean but basic. It had three bedrooms and was very spacious. There was a large dining room for guests and a large lounge area. Although very pleasant, I personally would not choose to stay at this sort of accommodation. It would be ideal as a refreshment stop if undertaking a long journey between points and definitely a perfect overnight stop for back-packers.

HERONS POOL – HOMESTAY, MUNDAKAYAM EAST (Midlands)

This next homestay was built in the typical Keralan style using dark wood. It was a little sombre for my liking as it was so dark inside. It was also situated very close to the main road. The accommodations were rather basic and again this is not a place I would choose to stay at, however, the owners were very charming and had prepared a lovely lunch for us all. We were also taken to the local club where guests can play tennis, badminton, billiards, golf and swim. Again this would be a perfect overnight stop for back-packers.

SPICE VILLAGE, THEKKADY - CGH Earth Property (Highlands)


This was an amazing ‘resort’ designed to replicate a local tribal village. Each ‘room’ is a thatched roof bungalow set amongst the lush grounds of the resort. Made up of just 47 bungalows there are 42 standard and 5 Deluxe. The Deluxe bungalows being slightly larger and with different furnishings. All had spacious en-suite facilities. Mosquito plugs are in the rooms and the electric points take the UK 3-pin plug. You really felt you were ‘at one’ with nature here, especially when going back to your bungalow at night. The temperature here in the highlands was much more comfortable than Cochin as there was no humidity. Make sure to take mosquito repellent though. This resort has a lovely pool, two restaurants, bar, yoga centre, shop and a spa. It is an ideal location for families, couples, nature lovers – in fact it’s ideal for everyone.

Spice Village is very eco-friendly: All waste is recycled, water is purified and used to irrigate their organic garden, waste food is made into compost, plastic bottles are used to build walls for local schools and food and supplies are bought locally within a 50 mile radius. Their goal is to eventually become completely self-sufficient. If Spice Village can do all this then why can’t everybody?

AANAVILASAM, PATHAMURY (Highlands)

Although described as a ‘homestay’ this property is more a boutique hotel. It has a choice of luxury suite rooms or luxury pool villas (accessible by wooden bridges) with beautiful en-suite facilities. Two more suites are being added at the moment with one (Presidential Suite) being set above the trees.


A very professionally run accommodation with a very luxurious feel. The dining area (serving breakfast, lunch & dinner) backs onto the plantation where they have their own bee hives. Birds of all types can be seen here, so this property would be ideal for bird watchers. Lunch was provided which was delicious and I must say I felt very at home here. Wi-fi is available free to guests in the reception area and on the terrace. Children under 12 years are not allowed in the pool villas. They produce their own coffee from coffee beans grown on the plantation and also their own purified drinking water. Although a beautiful property it isn’t really ‘child-friendly’ due to the bridges and pools. I could stay here without a second thought. Absolutely stunning.

MAYAPOTT, PERIYAR (Highlands)


This is yet another ‘homestay’ but again so different. A lovely plantation property built in and around the rock face. It has a feel of being part of the raw nature it is built around with the use of granite, stone and marble everywhere. There are even huge rocks that make up part of the bedrooms. Due to these materials there is a very rustic feel about it. There are three bedrooms, two within the main building and one set away along a wooden walkway – this room is self-contained with a downstairs area which could hold extra beds for children. En-suites have a small open-air area – novelty factor may wear thin when the bugs come in, though. There are plans to build more rooms. A stream runs beneath the property and you can sit in the open air reception area enjoying a drink or reading a book with the sound of trickling water in the background. Breakfast, lunch & dinner are served in the small dining room and guests are able to use the kitchen to make their own drinks. This property is built on a Cardamom plantation which you can walk around if you wish and even get shown how they process the seeds. An absolutely delightful property.

PARADISA PLANTATION, MURINJAPUZHA (Highlands)


Many properties visited were so off the beaten track you wondered how people found them, and this property was no exception. We just seemed to be climbing higher and higher into the mountains. When we finally arrived you still couldn’t see much but once through the stone entrance it was the view that took your breath away. Approximately 3½ hours from Kochi Airport the Paradisa is perched high above Cardamom hills and tea plantations. It is a working plantation growing tea & coffee and they also have their own tea manufacturing plant and produce their own coffee too. They call this place a Retreat and that suits it perfectly. There are 15 cottages but only 10 are let out to guests. The rest are kept for family. Each cottage is positioned so as to afford the occupants complete privacy. There is a small pool, a restaurant, yoga and Ayurveda treatments. This is definitely the place to stay if you need to get away from your stressful life. There was a family staying with two small children but I wouldn’t promote this as child friendly as there is absolutely nothing to do here apart from rest and relaxation. There were also many dangers for a small child who could easily fall between walls set around the cottages. The property is closed from mid May until the end of August due to the monsoons. Free Wi-Fi in public areas.

COCONUT LAGOON, KUMARAKOM - CGH Earth Property (Lowlands – Backwaters). This property is approximately 2 hours from Kochi Airport.


This was my favourite of all the hotels visited. To start with you are transported to the ‘resort’ via boat to the open-air reception area. Set in a beautiful location on the backwaters. You are surrounded by nature. There are three types of accommodation: Standard bungalows, Deluxe Bungalows with private pool area and terrace overlooking the paddy fields and Mansion Houses - a number of duplex properties where the downstairs area can accommodate extra beds for children. Mosquito plugs are in the rooms and the electric points take the UK 3-pin plug. This resort is like a ‘mini’ Venice with a network of bridges connecting the reception area, internet area, Ayurveda Spa and restaurants as well as the bungalows. There is a very large pool with sunbeds. A seafood restaurant is a short distance from the main restaurant – this is a very popular venue and a reservation is required. Guests can take a boat transfer to the town which runs as and when required. Guests can purchase a local Keralan curry lunch served on banana leaves. A great & tasty experience highly recommended. Up to three days of free Wi-Fi is available to guests that can be accessed in the reception and pool area. As with all waterfront properties, guests can enjoy a sunset cruise through the backwaters. Again, like Spice Village, this property recycles waste and water.

SPICE COAST CRUISES – CGH Earth Property (Backwater Rice boat cruise)


We were fortunate to experience a half day cruise aboard a ‘rice boat’ but you are able to stay overnight too as these houseboats also have delightful cabins with en-suite facilities. These boats are based on the actual design of the old rice boats that were used to transport rice back in the day. Guests get to see life along the canals whilst enjoying lunch with wine and/or beer. Unfortunately there seems to be hundreds of the boats now and there is a concern that they are polluting the waters with their waste. The CGH Earth boats are built with septic tanks so guests can rest assured that these boats will not pollute the waterways. ALL boats should be fitted with this facility so as to protect the delicate balance of life on and in the waterways.

MARARI BEACH RESORT - CGH Earth Property (Lowlands – Marari Beach) is approximately 1½ hours from Kochi Airport.


Set in 36 acres of ground, this property has ten garden pool villas, 49 standard villas and three Deluxe Pool villas. The Deluxe villas have two en-suites, one inside and one outside. There is a very large swimming pool. A walk through the extensive grounds brings you to the beach and the Arabian Sea which is warm and soft. Be aware - the beach shelves steeply into the sea and the waves can get very strong. Many hammocks are strung between trees so it's a great way to relax and read. This property is ideal for families and those in wheelchairs as it is all on one level. Mosquito plugs are not automatically in the rooms so you need to request them from reception. You also need a plug adaptor as the electric points do not take the UK 3-pin plug. Although on the beach, this was my least favourite CGH Earth property possibly because of the ‘outside’ en-suite facilities which put me a little too close to nature sometimes.

MARARI VILLAS, MARARI BEACH (Lowlands - Beach)

Palm Villa - A very nice three bedroomed villa set almost right on the beach. It is owned by Rupert & Olga (he is English and she is Russian). A very pleasant property which would definitely suit a large family or two small families as they could take over the whole unit. Staff are available for your needs and breakfast, lunch and dinner is provided. Sadly there is no main swimming pool yet but it seems that they do have plans to build one should the land at the side of the property become available. This would definitely be a bonus as not everyone likes to swim in the sea and at the moment there is not much land surrounding the villa.


The Hibiscus Cottage Pool

They also have two other villas a short distance away – Orchid Cottage & Hibiscus Cottage and these do have their own pools. Separate staff are available to provide breakfast, lunch & dinner.

RIVER RETREAT, Cheruthuruthy (Midlands)


This hotel was shown to us as a possible stopover for the Cultural Event & Elephant Project visits. It is set overlooking the Bharathapuzha River with amazing views. The rooms are very spacious and well furnished with en-suite facilities. There are 28 Heritage rooms, a separate cottage, very popular with honeymooners as it is quite private and two apartments ideal for families. With its own restaurant and adequate sized pool and Ayurveda Spa this is definitely a nice property to break your journey and to relax at after the long day and night watching the Kathakali. I would definitely choose this over the next property.

OLAPPAMANNA MANA, Vellinezhi (Highlands) is about 60 miles from Cochin.


This Homestay was definitely different from anywhere I have ever stayed. Seemingly set within the forest, the main building is 300 years old and the gentleman that showed us to our rooms seemed very proud to be responsible for such historical buildings. We were accommodated in a younger building, dating back 200 years. It was pitch black inside the rooms but he knew exactly where the light switches were. The bedrooms were extremely spacious and all had been converted to include basic en-suite facilities. Beds & furniture was also pretty basic. There was a small kitchenette for guests to make drinks if they so wished. Not my best night’s sleep, but it served the purpose of being close to the village for the Kathakali and also for the Elephant Project.

PURITY (Vembanad Lake, Backwaters) is approximately 1½ hours from Kochi Airport.


We arrived at this property down a bumpy, dusty road and you would never have expected to find such an upmarket property tucked away here. It has been decorated to perfection but I did feel as though I had entered an art gallery rather than a hotel. Although children are accepted here I would not feel comfortable in case they ran into a piece of art and broke it. There are five deluxe rooms and one suite, which takes up the entire top floor. There is a separate cottage in the garden which is ideal for a family. All rooms are different and very luxurious; you would definitely feel special staying here. The entrance hall leads through to a courtyard where you can walk across ‘stepping stones’ to reach the other side. Wander through the gardens down to the waterfront and just watch the day go by. A stunning property owned by Joerg Drechel. They are in the process of adding eight more rooms to this property.

TRINITY, Fort Cochin (Lowlands)

Another property owned by Joerg Drechel but very different from Purity. This property is very modern and the rooms are very bright and colourful with unique touches, like the cleverly designed outside sunken showers, kimonos & wooden slippers (a very Oriental flavour). There are three suites with two having a small mezzanine area which could be used for additional adults or children. I personally would not allow a young child to sleep up there as it looked like an accident waiting to happen. It was, however, a nice feature. There was a small dining area up stairs from the main entrance with views overlooking Cochin. An amazing property set in the heart of the city. They are also in the process of adding more rooms to this property.

MALABAR HOUSE, Fort Cochin (Lowlands)


The flagship property of Joerg Drechel and just a two minute walk from Trinity. This is known as the best boutique hotel in Cochin and you can understand why. Again, like Purity there is an art gallery feel to it. The swimming pool is right behind the reception, there is a very trendy wine bar and a small restaurant. The rooms are all uniquely decorated and have many art pieces displayed in them. The Malabar Suite is on the top floor and has two balconies overlooking the whole of the hotel. Cultural shows are put on each night and you can sit on your balcony watching from above. A very comfortable and luxurious property in the heart of Cochin.

EIGHTH BASTION, Fort Cochin - CGH Earth Property (Lowlands)

This brand new property has only recently opened. There are 19 rooms all decorated to a very high standard, with stunning en-suites and all have balconies. With five rooms on the ground floor (one for disabled use), eight rooms on the first floor (two with pool view) and six on the second floor (one sea view and three pool view) this hotel is so spacious I doubt it would feel crowded even at full capacity. The hotel serves breakfast, lunch & dinner and the restaurant has quite a modern feel to it. There is a lovely infinity pool and pool area. The hotel is very spacious to the extent that some of the areas seem to be wasted space. One example is walking to the rooms on the upper floors. The area is so large and empty you could hold a party in it. I wonder why they haven’t made more of the space? This hotel should become very popular with travellers and can only improve with age. One criticism, the staff wore jeans and polo shirts. Even for a modern hotel this ‘uniform’ didn’t gel with the ambience of the property.

CHITOOR KOTTARAM, Cochin (Backwaters)


Formerly a palace built by the Rajah of Cochin in 1898 so that he could visit his temple, this building has now been restored to offer travellers the chance to step back in time and sample life as royalty. The property has three rooms, two on the ground floor (one x double and one x twin) with private en-suites and the top floor which is the large suite. Only one party at a time can stay here and once the gate is closed you are not to be disturbed. With a number of staff ‘on site’ you become the Rajah and everything revolves around you and your comfort. The two downstairs rooms are separated by a tiled hallway and this leads to the garden which, in turn, leads to the lake. Sunset cruises can be taken on the property’s private boat. It takes 45 minutes by boat to get to the Brunton Boatyard which is far quicker than travelling by car. A great way to travel to the shops.

CULTURAL EVENING - KATHAKALI


A great afternoon watching the actors prepare for the drama. It takes two to three hours to apply their makeup and costumes but the finished results are amazing. Kathakali is a form of sign language and this ‘silent opera’ can last for hours. All actors are men, even playing the parts of women. This classical Indian ‘dance’ is now being revived. We were also introduced to Nibha Namboodiri (the first female Mahout in India) who talked us through her work on the Elephant Project and how everything benefits the surrounding villages.

THE ELEPHANT PROJECT


An early start got us to this amazing project. We were met by Nibha Namboodiri who told us all about her work and why she started it. Her mission is to remove all captive elephants from the ‘owners’ and place them into a sanctuary where they can live out the rest of their lives ‘free’. A local owner has already given one of his elephants up and there are already nine elephants at the sanctuary. Hopefully he will give her all of his elephants when the project becomes more successful. There are 800-1000 elephants in captivity in India and they are mainly used for festivals. Owners can demand as much as £10,000 per elephant per day to hire them for events. This is, therefore, a lucrative business to be in and you can understand why it is so difficult to get owners to give up their elephants. It was an amazing experience. We fed bananas to the elephants. Have you ever touched an elephants tongue? They are SO soft. I also helped bathe and scrub one of the elephants in the local river – a wonderful memory I shall treasure forever.

GETTING THERE

Cochin International Airport is the international airport serving the city of Kochi. It is located in Nedumbassery, about 30 kilometres (19 miles) northeast of Kochi, in the state of Kerala, India. It is the busiest and largest airport in the state of Kerala.

If you are looking for an established and recommended Destination Management Company for Kerala or, in fact, the whole of India, why not contact Pioneer Personalized Holidays through their website. Click on http://www.pioneertravels.com/





Destination Information

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Currency

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Additional

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