Having experienced the fast pace of life and the cut and thrust of Delhi, James Arnold took himself off to Goa for a spot of rest and relaxation.

After a few days in Delhi I needed a rest. The hustle and bustle, smells and constant noise of its backpacker district had left me desperate for some relaxation. I knew I would find some on Goa’s coastline.


Goan beach scene

What I didn’t count on was finding a state rich in its own culture and personality, so very different to the rest of India.

Much of this personality is owed to the Portuguese who colonised the state in the 1500’s. Seeking to gain a foothold in spice trade routes, the Europeans converted the predominately Hindu population and managed to keep control of the region until 1961, more than a decade after the British Raj had left the subcontinent.

In spite of this, the Portuguese left their mark. The language is still widespread, along with English, whilst Catholic churches dominate towns, cities and the wonderfully tropical countryside. The cuisine too has been influenced by its past (Vindaloo is based on a Portuguese dish, Carne de Vinhad’Alhos) and a languid European attitude is retained. Goa is not India.


Goan chicken curry

India’s smallest state is situated on its west coast, facing the Arabian Sea. There are excellent transport links with Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore to name a few, and it is also serviced by Dabolim International Airport. Hot and humid year round (around 30˚C) to avoid the rain and unbearable temperatures the peak season for a visit is between December and March.

The coastline is essentially a very large beach resort but the North and South of the state do have contrasts. Northern beaches such as Anjuna and Vagator (famous in the 90’s for all-night raves) seem predominantly for backpackers and have a hippy-traveller vibe to them.


Anjuna Beach

In the South, Benaulim and Palolem appear to be more geared for package holidays and can be fairly built up. That being said, relaxation is pretty much order of the day wherever you go and Palolem’s beach gives some of South East Asia’s beaches a run for their money in the ‘picture postcard’ stakes.


Palolem Beach

While many Goan beaches are long, wide strips of white sand with bar-cum-restaurants and a scattering of flora on the periphery – perfectly good for soaking up the sun - Palolem’s beach is a cut above, nestled as it is in a cove surrounded by lush palm trees and rickety beach huts. The bay is protected from strong waves and currents that allows for some decent swimming. The surrounding rock formations add to stunning sunsets.

Unfortunately there are a couple of problems that affect all beaches in India. Hawkers, although good natured, they can be relentless: many come from around India and lack that special relaxed disposition. Also expect to be sharing the sand with several canine and/or bovine chums.


Four legged beach pals

The towns themselves are never usually more than a 10-minute walk away from the beach and are stocked with most conveniences and western comforts. There are some excellent restaurants to be found and always a choice between traditional Goan and European establishments.

Goa’s size makes it easy to explore. You can see the whole state in a few days and there are plenty of tour guides and drivers to help you visit sights including national parks, waterfalls, bustling night markets and even hatching turtles - if you time it right. You could also do it yourself by hiring a moped, but be warned they drive very differently over there (imagine using the horn as you would an indicator and you get the gist).

For the more cowardly, myself included, local buses offer a cheap and simple way to get around, giving visitors a taste of Goan life inland and are ideal for visiting the former and current state capitals.


Panjim


A UNESCO World Heritage site, Old Goa, with its many surviving churches and ruins, is a major pilgrimage for millions of Christians across the subcontinent. My recommendation is to climb to the top of Holy Hill to take in the panoramic views from the Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary. And don’t miss out on the museums and art galleries on offer.

A capital since the mid 1800’s, Panjim (Panaji) is a breath of fresh air for an Indian state capital. There are plenty of restaurants and bars to recuperate from the baking sun and with its comparatively small population far fewer people on the streets. The highlight for me was seeing the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception sitting high in the middle of town. Its white-washed exterior looks stunning against a clear blue sky.


The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

Goa has much to offer whether you are a sun seeker or culture vulture. It’s the ideal place to go if you want to escape that ‘other’ India.

For more information visit www.goatourism.co.uk.