The Olive Tree at Cañada del Trigo near Pinoso is a stone farmhouse converted into a rural Bed and Breakfast venue. I wore my hiking boots on the plane and packed my lighter shoes in the case along with minimal “glad rags” because I was going there to walk in the ranges of the Sierra de la Pila, and I had to hope that people would not notice they were seeing the same frock every evening.

The warm welcome started at Alicante airport with happily smiling proprietor, Jenny Lock, there to greet me and to drive me to her mountain retreat. On arrival I had the choice of all but one of the suites – Thyme (Tomillo), Sorrel (Acedera), Basil (Albahaca), Rosemary (Romero), Coriander (Cilantro), Mint (Menta) or Cinnamon (Canela). Fennel (Hinojo) was already occupied by other guests. I explored them all and could happily have slept in any of the rooms as the décor and careful attention visible in each is of a high standard and making a choice wasn’t easy. I opted for Coriander because it would have the morning sun flooding the room when I opened the shutters next day. The utter silence was glorious after all the airport noise and bustle and I slept soundly.

A gentle “what would madam like for breakfast?” was accompanied by a cup of tea born by the red pinafore-clad Jenny and that radiant smile. I could eat breakfast by the pool, under the olive tree, in the dining room or in my room, as I wished. The pool won, and as I sat there in the sunshine gazing across the almond groves to the distant mountains (and to my challenge of the day!), life felt very good.

Walk leader Abel, a member of the Canton family who own the almond and olive groves adjoining The Olive Tree, turned out to be a charming young Spaniard with an intimate knowledge of “his” mountains in which he has walked and hunted all his life. I was clearly in safe hands. His spaniel came with us, as did the mellow early Spanish sunshine tempered with a welcome breeze.

That first day we did some eight to ten miles and saw only two other walkers in three hours. The scree took a little getting used to, but I was soon striding along confidently and enjoying the fresh air and stunning landscape. Jenny had sent me off with a packed lunch and while I was leaning back against fragrant scented herbs, soothed by the clicking sound of cicadas and the contented buzz of bumble bees, I thought a meal at the Ritz couldn’t have tasted better.

When we got back I found the other guests were already in the pool which features a super sophisticated swim up bar, so I didn’t need much persuasion to join them. The smiling Jenny, in yet another role, was our attentive barista.

For supper, the others proposed going to nearby Cañada de Lena where the tavern is renowned for its food. I happily went with them in the car although we could (almost) have walked it. The tavern was ordinary but the range of tapas and main courses was amazing. We could scarcely move at the end of all that eating, everything had been absolutely delicious.

Next day Abel suggested we used The Olive Tree bicycles to get to the start of the walk, and being out of practice on two wheels, I found myself puffing and my legs shook a bit and ached – and all before we had even started the day’s climb. We went higher and further this time and another glorious day was only slightly marred by my faint qualms about coping with the bike ride back. For our suppers that night we all walked down the lane to Cañada del Trigo for an enjoyable and somewhat less demanding meal than that of the night before.

Abel had work on the third day which gave me time for sightseeing. Situated halfway between The Olive Tree and Alicante is the tranquil city of Elche, home to a million palm trees. I spent a perfectly lovely time there, ambling among the gardens and the palm groves and all the tropical plants and trees, and I managed a visit to two of the many museums, and as well I found two excellent bookshops and tempting designer dress shops. It was a very long day, but Elche is an “absolute must” place to visit.

Saturday is nearby Pinoso’s market day so this was something that the three of us felt we couldn’t miss. Some Mexican guests had arrived the night before, but they wanted a quiet poolside time in which to acclimatize and so they didn’t accompany us. The stalls offered so much that we had to keep reminding one another that there would be a luggage weight limit on the flight home.

On our return to The Olive Tree we visited Nathario Canton’s olive press along the lane and we learned about the intricacies of obtaining olive oil. Further along the lane, in the little hamlet of Cañada del Trigo you can buy bottles of the local wine. Although unable to bring any home with us, we bought some to drink with our packed lunches the next day.

All too soon it was the day of my final hike with Abel, which for the Mexicans of course, was the day of their first climb. As I climbed and slithered and savoured the pure clean air, the wonderful views and the silences, I vowed to return and for a far longer stay next time to avail myself of the special long term rates on offer at the farmhouse. Perhaps I should stay there for six months and try and perfect my Spanish?

To round off my holiday of mountain walking and of palm tree tranquillity, I gave myself yet another contrast with a day at the coast where I explored Alicante and enjoyed some bracing sea air before it was time to fly home.


To find out more visit www.theolivetreespain.com and to book or confirm availability contact Jenny Lock on [email protected] .

Maps of the Sierra de la Pila are available online from www.natursport.com and the ones you want are numbers 97884 96 396 272 and 84 933 25 945.

For information about the Valencia area visit http://valencia-spain.info/