Mike Hampshire and his wife set off on a short-break to explore the unspoilt mountains of Cantabria

Very conveniently for us Brittany Ferries’ flagship, Pont Aven, docks right in the heart of Santander. It is a vibrant city well worth exploring as we had discovered on a previous visit. But we were heading for a short break in the mountains of Cantabria, the Picos de Europa, and so we joined the fast dual carriageway that snakes along the coast heading west.

After a short while we turned south towards the mountains, an approach that took us through a lengthy gorge formed by the river Deva. The river was to be our companion for much of our holiday as we headed up its valley to the town of Potes, a busy little town, with charming geranium-festooned back streets, shared equally between visitors, locals and weaving swallows. We lunched on local cider and a slice of tortilla before turning our attention to the shops spending a happy hour admiring the hand carved walking sticks; there are so many to choose from, obviously a local speciality.

Leaving the bustle of Potes behind, the valley opened out into rich green meadows, mature orchards and lush woods set against a backcloth of steadily rising mountains. Roads are quiet and modern, weaving between picturesque small hamlets and farms.

We stayed in a charming hotel full of local character with a breathtaking view up a steep hillside to the mountains towering above. This area does not aim to provide large, modern hotels. Instead the visitor receives a warm welcome from local people in accommodation that blends easily with the surrounding countryside. Evening entertainment took the form of quiet walks along well-marked footpaths enjoying a silence broken only by bird song. One magical moment was when we disturbed some 50-plus small blue butterflies on the path in front of us. As they took off they formed a delicate pale blue cloud, which all too quickly drifted out of sight.

Up a single-track road from our hotel, we discovered a small farming community. Through every ramshackle barn door we spied yet another collection of animals. Calves here, goats there and chickens wandering everywhere. The apple orchards were thick with blossom and a stream chuckled busily alongside us. The headstones in the over grown church yard provided evidence of just how many generations of the same families had farmed these fertile hillsides. Such beautiful surroundings; why would any farmer want to leave?

Exploring further afield we journeyed another ten miles to the head of the valley to find the only cable car in the Picos. It takes visitors up the 800m wall of rock to the mountaintops and provides the many walkers with an easy start to a day’s exploration of the striking scenery. The valley head is called Fuente de, ‘the fountain or spring of’. Fountain or spring of what? we asked! Well, the sensible locals noting the numerous streams in the area and accepting it was impossible to identify which was the main one, decided it was safer to leave it open to speculation.

After a day in the mountains, a hearty meal was called for. Small, unpretentious, roadside restaurants provided a good choice. We found a secluded little place with an inviting terrace overlooking the terracotta roof tiles of nearby houses, but was it even open? We eventually established contact with the owner/chef/waiter (all rolled into one) and were soon in his kitchen choosing our dish for the meal. Yes, the choice was limited but the meal was delicious and very adequate. Our host pressed us to try a measure of his own brew of the local ‘fire water’ called Orujo. “No charge; it is my pleasure!” However, we suspect part of his pleasure was witnessing the tears rolling down our cheeks seconds after downing the concoction.

Ours was only a short holiday break and we left the valley of the river Deva after just three days, but the memories have stayed for much longer. This is indeed a region for hikers to explore and their efforts are well rewarded. The spring flowers in the meadows and the verdant hillsides rising up to the imposing stark mountaintops have left vivid impressions.

If time had allowed we would have visited the picturesque car-free village of Bulnes reached by a funicular railway. And it would have been nice to have dawdled along the coastal road back to Santander, taking in the numerous little fishing villages and quiet beaches, or, by way of complete contrast, added a few miles eastward to our return journey and visited the Guggenheim museum in Bilbao.

But our impressive ship was waiting for us, ready to set off on its 21-hour journey from Santander back to Plymouth. Although we had a very comfortable cabin to relax in, the ship provided many time-spinning diversions. On the crossings there are opportunities to join a light-hearted class of other holidaymakers brushing up on some of the essentials of the Spanish language. Alternatively, follow the audio guide round the ship’s 200-item art collection. In addition there are cabaret shows, cinemas and an indoor swimming pool where youngsters can let off steam. There is a choice of restaurants and we ate one meal whilst watching a number of porpoises playfully swimming alongside. Delightful.

The Picos de Europa region is still to be discovered by large numbers of visitors and yet they are easily reached from the UK. Book your crossing with Brittany Ferries, pack those walking boots and cameras and explore the delights of the Picos for yourself!

For information on all Brittany Ferries’ crossings including Spain and short-break holidays visit www.brittanyferries.com